There is something profoundly magical about the Apennines in early autumn—a quiet, untamed beauty that feels a world away from the classic postcard views of Tuscan rolling hills. In September 2026, my family were travelling through Italy, and up until arriving in Lucca, the itinerary was city-hopping, visiting all of the heavily crowded, tourist hot-spots. I was desperate for a change, to escape the crowds and needed to scratch an itch. That itch was a hike with camera in hand. The brief was relatively simple: hike somewhere most people visiting Tuscany very rarely see, and get me away from the crowds! So, I set out to capture the rugged crests along the border of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, guided by local hiking guide and photographer Stefano Gabryel.

If you're planning to explore this stretch of Italy, hiring a car is an absolute must. My alarm buzzed in the pitch-black hours of the morning, and by 4:30 AM, I met Stefano at a local public car park in Lucca to begin our drive up into the winding mountain roads.

The Hike to Lago Scaffaiolo

We reached our trailhead while the night sky was still studded with stars. From the designated parking spot, the hike up to Lago Scaffaiolo takes roughly 1.5 hours. Hiking through the cool morning air alongside someone who knows every ridge and contour of these mountains made the steep trail pass a pleasure to experience.

Italy had just endured an unusually long, scorching, and dry summer. Because Lago Scaffaiolo relies entirely on rainfall rather than glaciers or river feeders, we weren't surprised to find the lake almost completely empty of water. Yet, far from being a disappointment, the exposed lakebed and dry landscape revealed a raw, textured dramatic frame for sunrise.

Autumn's Early Palette

As the sun began to edge over the horizon, the early morning light delivered in ways only high-altitude mountain air can.

The low sun saturated the ochres and rich yellows of the sun-bleached grasses, coating the slopes in a warm, gilded glow. But the true showstopper was the wild blueberry bushes (mirtilli). Covering the distant hillsides, their leaves had turned a striking, vivid crimson red, creating a fiery contrast against the golden ridgelines.

(Check out the photo gallery to see how the light transformed the slopes minute by minute.)

Guiding with Passion (and Mushrooms!)

What truly elevated this trip was hiking alongside Stefano. His deep passion for the Tuscan landscape and its hidden, unexpected gems is infectious. Beyond his photographer's eye for composition and light, Stefano's knowledge of local flora and fungi is phenomenal. Plus, his photos of me in my element proves he's just as confident and comfortable handling a camera!

As we walked, he shared fascinating insights into the region’s history and native mushrooms. While I didn't have time on this trip to join one of his dedicated mushroom-hunting hikes, hearing him detail the local forest ecosystems convinced me I'll need to return for one.

Planning Your Visit

If you're heading to the Apennines, or basing yourself in Lucca, and want to discover the region's secret spots through the lens of a local expert, I highly recommend booking a trip with Stefano. You can read his own perspective on our journey and explore his guiding services over on Stefano Gabryel's Website.

Whether you're looking for sunrise photography tours, rugged ridge hikes, or seasonal mushroom foraging, exploring these mountains with a guide who truly loves the land makes all the difference.

Photos of me in the Apeninnes landscape are by © Stefano Gabryel